South Wind Through the Kitchen Review
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(More customer reviews)South Wind Through The Kitchen, The Best Of Elizabeth David is a selection of Ms. David's work that was compiled by Jill Norman, who is Elizabeth David's literary trusty. Jill Norman, publisher and author, also completedHarvest Of The Cold Months, Elizabeth David's final book, which she wasworking on at the time of her death; it was completed using notes left byMs. David. Many of the selections in this book were chosen by people thateither knew Elizabeth David or were influenced by her-she influenced alegion of chefs and food writers, I count myself among those ranks.
Reading the writings of Elizabeth David is inspirational to say theleast; she is often said to be the best food writer of her time. Her workin general is not merely a collection of recipes and essays on food; it ismore akin to an autobiography telling of the people and food that she hasknown. While this is definitely a utilitarian book that is full of recipes,it can also easily be read cover to cover, like a novel-even the recipesread as a form of prose. A classic example of her poetic form of recipewriting is evident in her essay on Cornish Saffron Cake, which appears onpages 326-328 of this book; it originally appeared in English Bread AndYeast Cookery, which was published in 1977.
Over the years I have oftenfound myself reading (and re-reading) the introduction in my well worn copyof A Book Of Mediterranean Cuisine for enjoyment and inspiration. A Book OfMediterranean Cuisine was Ms. David's first book, which was published in1950. Though it was published almost a half century ago it still rings truetoday. The first and last paragraphs are what I find most interesting; theyare as follows (it appears in full on page 3 of South Wind Through TheKitchen):
"The cooking of the Mediterranean shores, endowed with all thenatural resources, the colour and flavor of the south, is a blend oftradition and brilliant improvisation. The Latin genius flashes from thekitchen pans."
"With this selection (it does not claim to be more) ofMediterranean dishes, I hope to give some of the lovely cookery of thoseregions to people who do not already know them, and to stir the memories ofthose who have eaten this food on its native shores, and who would likesometimes to bring a flavour of those blessed lands of sun and sea andolive trees into their English kitchens."
Elizabeth David was a prolificwriter who between 1950 and 1994 published nine books, most of which areconsidered classics amongst food professionals; portions of all of herbooks appear in this "best of" volume. As a cook she alwaysstrode to be as authentic as possible and often this meant writing aboutingredients that were not yet known or at least not available in post-warEngland, and that is what I find really interesting about this book. Muchof her work was published three, four, even five decades ago and is notonly relevant today but is still used as reference by serious cooks aroundthe globe.
In short, South Wind Through The Kitchen is a "musthave" for any cook's library, whether a professional or a layperson.It is both an inspirational read and also an invaluable source of foodinformation and recipes.
Reviewed by Chef Joe George of ChefTalk.Com
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